I enjoyed my first post so much that I thought I would follow up with my step by step, show and tell of my first Age of Sigmar Underworlds (AOS UWs) Warband.
A kind gift in the form of a Games Workshop E-Voucher from Crispin, as well as his ravings for wining a best out of three in his first sets of games inspired this purchase.
I think all war bands for AOS are snap fit, but the detail on Sylvaneth models are simply stunning! I could tell after I put them together that these minis were going to be a pleasure to paint.
After assembly I began by base painting the bark areas with the Dryad bark base paint and after that dried I used a layer paint from the older Citadel range to layer up the bark areas called scorch brown. Nowadays known as Rinox Hide. I used my grotty old medium layer brush for this job.
Once dry the wash was applied on the bark areas using the Citadel Shade Agrax Earthshade. But because I’m lazy and impatient at times I made the risky decision to use my Citadel Ceramite White to base the skin or ethereal areas of the mini, as well as the accompanying sprites, all while the brown wash was drying in very close neighbouring areas. I used a 0/3 brush and a medium layer brush to get the coverage I needed in larger and smaller areas of the minis.
Due to that taking enough time and concentration to work around the bark areas drying, the wash in those regions were now dry.
I forgot to take a photo of that finished step, sorry about that. With everything now dry I proceeded with the dry brushing of my bark areas. Now you may be thinking this has been done in a bit of a strange order. You’re probably right, but the way I can justify this is if any dry brushing gets on the white, it won’t matter. This is due to the fact another layer will go on this area at some point. Remember Duncan always advises two thin coats.
For the dry brushing stage which brings up all those lovely raised details on models just like Sylvaneth I used a Sylvaneth Bark dry paint. Dry paints are not as runny as standard paints and are great for their intended use. Use an appropriate dry brush to get the best out of this effect.
After applying the the Sylvaneth bark colour I really thought the highlight had not popped enough for me. I prefer extreme colours when it comes to highlights rather than subtle ones. Im easily pleased you see… So I applied another dry paint to give those dry brushed areas a bit more kick.
I was bit more happy with the result on the bark now. If I went any lighter I feel some attention would be taken away from the next stage I was going to prepare.
Ylthari herself. What I did with her thorns beneath her was to use a pale green very close in colour to the plastic used on the models. Then used the shade paint Athonian Camoshade to darken up those areas. I proceeded after it was dry to dry brush a very pale dry paint called Nurgling green. Then washed the area again with the same Shade. At a later stage I decided the highlight was not enough from the pale green and dry brushed a cream/stone like colour and that did the trick nicely for my preference.
Next is the attention to the skin and enchanted weapon areas. I layered the skin with another layer of the white. My paint was already quite watered down due to trying to rejuvenate an old dried up paint but still worked wonders. I advised this layer to be a little watered down for that smooth finish.
After the second layer was dry I followed Duncan’s advise from Warhammer TV and used the technical paint Lahmian Medium and the technical paint Nihilakh Oxide 3 parts medium to two parts oxide it becomes effectively a wash to use and you can see our effect below. Try to avoid pooling of recessed areas too much.
I decided that the next stage for me to concentrate on should be the bases. I approached this aspect of the mini with a grey base paint Mechanicus Standard Grey. I was fortunate that these minis are snap fit to their base and I did not consider gluing them earlier, so was able to push them out for access.
After a simple layer I applied a wash of the staple and famous Nuln Oil.
Again while the bases were drying I worked on one of the minis tabard area. With a dark green base paint Castellan Green. Once dry, highlighted with a mid green.
With the bases dry I dry brushed the surface with a light grey.
Next I paid my attention to the leaves on the minis using orange, yellow and mid green. I highlighted these with a karki colour and washed with a yellow wash on the orange and yellow leaves and a green wash on the green leaves.
One of the minis had a prominent gap in the middle of it so thought this would be perfect to fill with some basing flock I had on hand. These flower stick-ons can be purchased on ebay. I secured that in place with PVA glue and painted the rim of the base carefully…and presto.
The only other details to mention is the artifact that is on the back of one of the minis and the runes that are supposed to glow inside the bark.
I used the white base coat to cover the artifact first, again with two thin coats and used a purple wash called Duruchi Violet to do a thin coat over that aspect of the mini.
The runes were created with a light green watered down to fill the recesses and once dry I applied a green wash to the area and highlighted around that area with a light green esge paint from Games workshop. Alternatively you can dry brush a light shade of the colour you are using and then finely highlight with white. (I will do a separate article on off source lighting.)
Finishing the mini always by painting the rim the colour of your choice.
Thank you for reading my article, I hope to improve them as I produce more content for the WC site. Until next time.